Crochet Ghost Amigurumi Pattern Perfect for Halloween Décor
Easy Crochet Ghost Amigurumi Pattern for Spooky Vibes
The pattern is beginner-friendly with straightforward steps, focusing on basic stitches and continuous rounds. Even those new to crochet will find it a rewarding and approachable project. This little ghost pattern is also a fantastic stash buster, using small amounts of yarn while offering scope for customization in color and accessories. Whether you prefer a simple smile or a playful face, it can be easily adapted to match your creative vision.
Apart from being a relaxing project, it’s a quick option that’s perfect for last-minute Halloween décor or party favors. Lightweight, durable, and oh-so-charming, this ghost is a creative way to express your crafting skills and add a unique touch to your festive displays. Ideal for all ages, it’s a fun, handmade treasure.
Materials
- Yarn (cotton 2 mm thickness):
- White (main body, arms, base edge)
- Orange (bow tie)
- Black (mouth)
- Hook: 2 mm metal crochet hook
- Stuffing: Synthetic fiberfill (pillow stuffing type)
- Safety eyes: 5 mm, 1 pair + their backs
- Stitch marker or small safety pin
- Tapestry needle (blunt / canevá)
- Scissors
- Lighter (optional, to slightly melt and secure safety eye backs)
- Cardboard or plastic lid (for base circle)
- Pins / sewing pins (for placing eyes, arms, mouth)
Special Features
- Small (approx. 8 cm) – great for quick makes and using leftover yarn
- Flat, reinforced base using cardboard/plastic for stability
- Simple tube arms and tiny, bow tie
- Safety eyes + embroidered mouth for personality
Difficulty level: Beginner to advanced beginner
Abbreviations (US Terms, in bold in the pattern)
- MR – magic ring
- ch – chain
- sc – single crochet
- inc – increase (2 sc in same stitch)
- dec – single crochet decrease (2 stitches together)
- sl st – slip stitch
- st(s) – stitch(es)
All rounds are worked in continuous rounds unless stated otherwise. Use a stitch marker at the first stitch of each round.
BODY & HEAD (WHITE)
Round 1
- Make a MR, work 6 sc into the ring.
- Pull tail to close ring.
(6 sts)
R- 2
- inc in each stitch around: 2 sc in every st.
(12 sts)
R- 3
- * 1 sc, inc* repeat around.
(18 sts)
Round 4
- * 2 sc, inc* repeat around.
(24 sts)
Round 5
- * inc, 3 sc* repeat around.
(30 sts)
Now pause:
- Lightly pull the working yarn loop long so it doesn’t unravel.
- Place the piece on your cardboard/plastic and trace the outer contour of this base.
- Cut a circle slightly smaller than the traced line. This will go inside later to stabilize the base.
Round 6 – Back Loop Only (BLO)
- Work 1 sc in each st, but only in the back loop of every stitch.
(30 sts)
The unused front loops will form the line where the base “ruffle” will be made later.
Round 7–10
- From now on, through both loops.
- Rounds 7, 8, 9, 10: 1 sc in each st around.
(4 rounds total, 30 sts each)
Preparing the Base
- Tighten the tail of the MR so the center hole closes; trim the excess slightly.
- Fold along the round where you worked BLO (round 6) so the bottom flattens.
- Optional: add a bit of cold or hot glue inside the folded area.
- Insert your cardboard/plastic circle into the base to keep the ghost flat and stable.
SHAPING THE HEAD
Round 11
- * 3 sc, dec* repeat around.
(24 sts)
R- 12
- 1 sc in each st around.
(24 sts)
R- 13
- * 2 sc, dec repeat around.
(18 sts)
Round 14
- 1 sc in each st around.
(18 sts)
R- 15 – Increase Flare for Body
inc in every stitch around 2 sc in each st.
- (36 sts)
Rounds 16–22
- 1 sc in each st around, keeping 36 sts.
(7 rounds total, 36 sts each)
EYE PLACEMENT & STUFFING
- Move your stitch marker to the back of the ghost so you know where the back is.
- Fold your ghost gently front-to-back to find the center front. Mark it with a pin.
- From that center pin, go down two rounds – that round is where the eyes will sit.
- From the center point, count 2 stitches to one side and mark (first eye).
- Leave a space of 5 stitches between eyes: count 5 sts and mark the second eye spot.
- Insert 5 mm safety eyes in those marked spots and secure with backs.
Tutor’s suggestion (safety tip):
- Slightly heat the plastic safety back with a lighter and then press using the lighter base to flatten it more, so the eyes cannot be pulled out easily by small children.
Stuffing the Body
- Fill the lower body first (below the widest part), using fiberfill.
- After later rounds and shaping, you will add more stuffing to complete the head.
LOWER BODY SHAPING (TAPERING)
Round 23
- * 4 sc, dec* repeat around.
(30 sts)
R- 24
- * 3 sc, dec* repeat around.
(24 sts)
Round 25
- * 2 sc, dec* repeat around.
(18 sts)
R- 26
- * 1 sc, dec* repeat around.
(12 sts) - Pause and stuff the rest of the ghost, shaping it nicely.
R- 27
- Work 6 dec around (one dec over each pair of stitches).
(6 sts) - Go to the next stitch, make 1 sl st, leave a long tail, cut, and pull through.
Closing the Top
- Thread the tail onto the tapestry needle.
- Insert the needle through the front loop of each of the 6 remaining stitches (zigzag).
- Pull tight to close the hole.
- Insert the needle back into the same point and come out anywhere else on the body.
- Make a small knot on an internal strand, then hide the tail inside and cut close.
BOTTOM EDGE RUFFLE (WHITE)
You will now use the front loops left from Round 6.
- Pick any front loop from the base edge and attach white yarn.
- ch 1 to secure.
Then work around:
- In each front loop, make 1 sl st.
- Work all the way around the bottom edge, trying not to tighten the stitches too much so the edge remains soft and slightly wavy.
At the end:
- Join with 1 sl st into the first sl st.
- Leave a long tail, cut, and pull.
- With the needle, go to the next stitch, tighten slightly to close the gap.
- Make a small knot, insert the needle into the same spot, pass inside the body, and cut the yarn.
- Hide any extra tails the same way.
ARMS / HANDS (WHITE) – MAKE 2
Round 1
- MR, work 6 sc into the ring.
(6 sts)
Rounds 2–6
- 1 sc in each st around.
(5 rounds, 6 sts each)
You’ll form a small tube.
Tips from tutor:
- Pull the MR tail tight to close the starting hole; this tail can stay inside as stuffing, so you don’t necessarily need extra fiberfill for the tiny arms.
- After Round 6, go to the next stitch, make 1 sl st, then leave a long tail for sewing, cut, and pull through.
BOW TIE (ORANGE)
- Make a MR.
- ch 3.
- 1 dc (or tall stitch equivalent) into the MR.
- ch 3, then 1 sl st into the MR.
Repeat once more:
5. ch 3.
- 1 dc into MR.
- ch 3, then 1 sl st into MR.
- Leave a long tail if you want to sew the bow; otherwise you can glue it.
- Pull the MR tail to close the center of the bow.
To shape the bow:
- Use the starting tail to wrap several times around the middle of the bow to pinch it and form the classic bow shape.
- Secure with a small knot at the back; trim the short tail.
- Thread the long tail on the needle and pass under the wraps once or twice to secure; this same tail will be used to attach the bow to the ghost.
PLACING THE ARMS
- From each eye, count 5 stitches backward towards the side.
- On that line, go down to the neck area – that’s where the arms will be attached.
- You can position the arms straight or slightly diagonal (the tutor prefers a slight upward diagonal).
- Sew each arm around its opening, passing through both the arm stitches and the body fabric.
- At the end, make a knot, insert the needle into the same hole, hide the tail in the body, and cut.
- Repeat for the other arm.
MOUTH (BLACK)
- Cut a long strand of black yarn and split it in half (she uses 6-ply and keeps 3 strands) for finer embroidery.
Mark positions with pins:
- From the right eye, count 1 stitch to the right and 1 row down – mark the first corner of the mouth.
- From that point, count 3 stitches across and 1 row down – mark the other corner of the mouth.
Embroider:
- Insert the needle with the black thread from anywhere else in the body and come out at the first mouth mark. Leave a short tail inside.
- Backstitch or straight stitch along the line between the two marks to form a small curved or straight smile.
- Stitch back into the same entry point to define the shape, then secure with a hidden knot inside the body.
- Hide tails inside and cut.
ATTACHING THE BOW TIE
- Position the bow tie at the neck, centered under the mouth.
- Using the long orange tail, make a couple of small stitches through the bow and the body to fix it in place.
- Knot securely at the back or inside, hide the end, and cut.
Tutor’s Suggestions & Uses
- Great for beginners, thanks to repetitive rounds of sc, simple inc/dec, and minimal sewing.
- You can omit the cardboard/plastic if you want a softer bottom, but the stabilized base allows the ghost to stand up.
- Perfect as:
- Halloween decorations
- Table or shelf ornaments
- Keychains (just add a keyring on top)
- Party favors
- Cute gifts for friends or kids
Conclusion
Your mini ghost amigurumi is now complete – a sweet, soft character with a flat base, expressive eyes, and a charming bow tie. It’s a quick, low-yarn project that’s ideal for seasonal décor or small gifts, and a great way to polish your amigurumi basics.
Final Tip
To keep the shape neat, stuff gradually as you go, especially around decreases, using small bits of fiberfill and gently shaping with your fingers or the back of your hook.










